Third Ward Caffe
Regional Italian Cuisine In A Historic Setting

By Doris Cummins

Anyone who enjoys dining in historic buildings but has not yet discovered the Third Ward Caffe should plan to visit this delightful regional Italian restaurant soon.  Located in the midst of charming art galleries, specialty shops, entertainment facilities and condo development on the southern edge of downtown Milwaukee’s Historic Third Ward, the restaurant is located in what was once the Jewett and Sherman Merchants Mills building, prominent manufacture of coffee and spices, dating from 1875.  The restaurant has attracted a wide range of patrons there for over 18 years.

”We were the first restaurant in Milwaukee to feature northern Italian cuisine,” said Jane Nelson who with her architect husband, Randy, own and operate the Caffe.  He is also the chef.  The most favored recipes are from his Italian grandmother.  (The couple resides upstairs with their two teenage children.)

Truly unique in décor and cuisine, the Caffe includes an expansive take-out deli market.

Within the restaurant eighteen-foot-high ceilings and tall windows add to the spaciousness, although the restaurant seats just 50 guests, (with 12 more outside as weather permits).  A vibrant mural of Orvieto, a northern Italian hill town by Madison-area artist, Nancy Lee, covers the width of one wall.  Exposed Cream City Brick and paneling complement floral upholstered chairs and linen-covered pedestal tables.  Miniature white lights and a display of Italian pottery complete the décor.  The tiny bar is centered within the restaurant.

According to Jane what attracts patrons is food cooked to order using the freshest possible ingredients.  Although the menu changes quarterly, certain dishes are perennial favorites such as the appetizer, Carciofi Caldi, artichoke hearts broiled with black olives, provolone and parmesan cheese.  Three soups and four salads are offered a la carte.  Ten veal, chicken and beef entrees are available, all prepared to perfection.  Gorgonzola with either veal or chicken sautéed with white wine, cheese and prosciutto ham is popular, as is Milanese, breaded veal scallopini or chicken breast in lemon butter.  Pollo Romano, chicken breast in cream with robust Gorgonzola cheese and walnuts served on spinach, also delights diners.

Imagine choosing from seventeen pasta entrées!  Tantalizing Maryland blue crab-filled ravioli in tomato cream sauce is a frequent request.  “In September people start calling us to find out when we’ll begin serving pumpkin-filled ravioli,” Nelson remarked.  Patrons also enjoy Paglia e Fieno, a spinach and egg linguine tossed in cream with prosciutto ham and mushrooms.  Pizza, vegetarian and seafood entrees round out the menu.  A desert tray features assorted delicate tortes.

The Nelsons grow all their own herbs and vegetables at their Door County Farm.

Third Ward Caffe is located at 225 E St. Paul Avenue between Water and Broadway.  Lunch hours are:  Tues – Fri, 11 am – 2:30 pm.  Dinner, Tue – Sat from 5 pm.  Reservations:  (414) 224-0893

EXCLUSIVELY YOURS  October 2000