After 50 Years, Dorf Haus a Proven Survivor
By Chris Martell

Town of Roxbury. – Any restaurant that survives 50 years has beaten the odds.  Especially if it’s a restaurant that seats 450 in a town of 1,500—and it serves German food, which has been on the endangered species list for many years.

The Dorf Haus has ignored culinary trends and catered to residents of this old German enclave with regularly scheduled Bavarian smorgasbords with live oompah music, eight German entrees on its regular menu, servers in dirndl skirts and portraits of Crazy King Ludwig of Bavaria and his fairy tale castle.

First, a trip to the salad bar brings another jolt of authenticity with its bowl of fried chicken gizzards, which share space with classic Wisconsin salad bar fixings such as pickled beets and an excellent hot bacon dressing for drizzling over fresh spinach.

Three of the eight German specialties have been elevated to “Haus Specialty” which are indicated by the presence of a German flag.

Rouladen ($15.95) is among them, and the honor is well-deserved.  Tender slices of beef are rolled with bacon and pickle, then baked and topped with a mellow mushroom gravy.  None of the components out-shouts the others and the result is lively harmony.  With it came a stellar pickled dark red cabbage and greasy-but-good fried potato wedges.

Also bearing the German flag is the Sauerbraten ($15.95), which features thick, tender slices of marinated beef in a sweet-sour gingersnap sauce with an overboard amount of nicely browned spaetzel, plus the terrific red cabbage.

Five types of fish and seafood are offered on the American side of the menu, and they can be ordered broiled with lemon and butter or breaded and deep-fried.

The Haddock ($13.95) is said to be the restaurant’s most popular fish, and it tasted fresh and perfectly broiled.  It is “seasoned with our own Dorf Haus secret recipe” that was too subtle to discern.

Entrees come with soft, freshly baked white bread and soups.  Both the chicken dumpling and vegetable beef needed more interesting seasonings.

Two desserts, a turtle cheesecake ($4.50), a milk chocolate cake with a creamy layer, were super-sized, dense and very sweet, and more than a tad overwhelming after a heavy German meal.

Hopping around to polka music might be a better way to end an evening at the Dorf Haus (meaning a small village inn), which Vern and Betty Maier bought in 1959 when it was a tavern and grocery store.

Diner’s Scorecard

Restaurant:  Dorf Haus
Location:  8931 Highway Y, Sauk City (Roxbury)
Phone:  643-9980

Hours:  Dinner Wednesday and Thursday 5 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 p.m.; Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.;  Bavarian smorgasbord 5 to 9 p.m. on the 1st Monday of each month year-round and, in addition on the 1st & 3rd Monday of the month from June through October

Specialties:  German, American, Friday fish fry

Prices:  Entrees $8.95 to $27; sandwiches $8 to $11

Smoking:  Permitted in bar area until August, when Dane County’s smoking ban goes into effect.

Noise level:  Comfortable

Credit Cards:  Accepted

Accessibility:  Yes

Reservations:  Accepted

Bottom line:  Warm and homey, with good food and modest prices.  Unlimited salad bar with entrées.  Children’s and seniors menu; not recommended for vegetarians.  Live polka music during the Bavarian smorgasbords.